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The go-to outfit -

We have to start with the pope's go-to outfit, known as his day dress or choir cassock. Made of white silk moiré, this classic floor-length look is instantly recognizable. Complete with a shoulder cape (pellegrina) and fringed sash (fascia), it's nothing short of iconic. 

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The white cap -

The small skullcap, known as the zucchetto, has become synonymous with the pontiff. Composed of eight triangles, white silk is used to reflect the pope’s position as the highest member of the church. Cardinals wear red, bishops wear pink, and priests wear black. 

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Hat swapping -

Despite his position, the pope is obliged to swap zucchettos sometimes. If he is offered one by a visitor, he must gift them his own in return. So, if you would like a papal keepsake, then make sure you have a zucchetto in your pocket when you meet him! 

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The pope’s hat -

The miter is the typical tall, pointed hat worn by the pope during services and ceremonies. The tradition of the miter dates back to the fifth century, and while the main color is usually white, it can have a wide variety of designs depending on the occasion. 

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Catholic cappello -

The pope has many hats in his closet, including the cappello romano, which looks rather like a sombrero. This red hat complete with gold cords doesn’t actually serve any ceremonial purpose and is only worn when the pope requires shelter from the sun or rain. 

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The pope’s tiara -

Yes, that’s right, the pope has a papal tiara. Traditionally, this three-tiered, bejeweled hat was worn as a coronation crown. However, it hasn’t been used since Paul VI became pope, and is now on permanent display in the crypt church of the Basilica of the National Shrine of the Immaculate Conception in Washington, DC.

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Velvet bonnet -

This one hasn’t been worn for a while, but it was such a popular papal staple in the past that Pope John XXIII was actually buried in his. The fur-trimmed camauro looks almost like a Christmas bonnet, and used to be worn to keep the pope warm (and in style) during winter. 

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Colorful chasuble -

The pope may be known for wearing white, but he does sometimes break out in color. When performing Mass, the pontiff will often wear a chasuble. It comes in various colors depending on the occasion. Purple, for example, is typically worn during Lent. 

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Holy undergarments -

The amice is a white linen cloth worn under the pope’s other vestments. Sitting around the neck and shoulders, it keeps the pope cozy during Mass—although its construction is so complicated, he requires help from his team to assemble it! 

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Silk tunic -

Underneath the chasuble, the pope also wears the pontifical tunicle and dalmatic. The dalmatic is a long, wide-sleeved tunic and the dalmatic is a slightly shorter version. Both are made of very thin silk and are worn during Mass to signify the fullness of the priesthood.

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The decorated stole -

The stole looks somewhat like a scarf and comes in many different colors, fringes, and patterns, which are chosen depending on the occasion. The pope even has a special stole of state, which is highly decorated and bears his personal coat of arms.

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The papal fanon -

The fanon is pulled down over the chasuble and forms a kind of large collar. The doubled-shoulder cape is made of white silk and weaved with narrow golden stripes. However, it hasn’t been worn since Pope Benedict XVI donned it in 2013. 

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The papal pallium -

The pallium is a woolen band worn around the neck and adorned with crosses. Other than the pope, only metropolitan bishops can wear this when the pope bestows it upon them. Made of lamb wool, it represents their pastoral role as good shepherds of the church. 

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Catholic cape -

The mozetta is a red elbow-length cape that covers the pope’s shoulders and comes in different shades and materials based on the time of year. True to form, Pope Francis refused to wear this, and it has been seen as one of his biggest declarations of humility to date.

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Gilded cloak -

In layman's terms, the mantum is a large gilded coat or cloak that is fastened around the neck and typically draped on the pope when he first enters the basilica as the pontiff. The alb is a similar garment that is worn on special occasions and is distinctly silver and gold. 

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The papal puffer? -

In 2023, a fake photo of Pope Francis in a white puffer coat went viral. The AI-generated image showed a very cool-looking Francis in a fashionable knee-length puffer. Sadly, however, it was all a ruse. His actual coat is a very smart, simple style. 

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Gold trimmed stockings -

Known as buskins, the liturgical stockings are embellished with embroidered decoration and trimmed with gold. However, when going about his day-to-day business, the pope wears white socks with red shoes or black socks with black shoes, and leaves the gold trim at home. 

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Saintly slippers -

Technically called sandals, these soft shoes made of crushed velvet seem more like slippers. Typically red, the shoes can be presented in different colors depending on the Mass being celebrated and come complete with gold tassels and embellishments. Fancy!

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Walking in the pope’s shoes -

The red leather papal shoes have become something of a trademark. Occasionaly adorned with gold braiding or crosses, they really pop against the white of the pope’s cassock. In the past, red was the most expensive dye to use, so this would symbolize the pope’s wealth and power.

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Breaking with tradition -

Pope Francis, however, switched to an understated black. Throughout his papacy, Francis has bucked many of the more lavish traditions to reflect his choice to live and dress more simply than the popes of the past. 

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The final flourish -

The maniple is the final vestment worn by the pope when he is in full dress for service. It is an embroidered band of silk or fabric that hangs from his left forearm. The subcinctorium is a very similar garment that hangs from his waist and bears an image of the Lamb of God. 

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The Ring of the Fisherman -

Now it’s time to focus on the accessories, and the pope has quite a few! Starting with the Ring of the Fisherman, each pope is presented with a new signet ring featuring Saint Peter, to symbolize their succession from him as a fisherman. In the past, it was also used to seal letters. 

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The pectoral cross -

For centuries, the pectoral cross, a symbol of prestige and power, was made from gold and embellished with gems and precious stones. Characteristically, however, Pope Francis decided to keep the simple silver cross he had always worn as a bishop instead. 

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Pastoral staff -

The pope's final accessory is the pastoral staff. This ceremonial staff is adorned with a cross and can be made of either silver, gold, or even wood. Whilst the tradition dates back centuries, the modern staff, known as the papal ferula, was introduced in 1965.

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Walking stick -

Pope Francis, however, is more commonly seen with a walking stick as he struggles with knee problems. He has also suffered badly with breathing and was admitted to hospital for an extended stay this year, so he is sometimes also seen in a wheelchair. 

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The popemobile -

The popemobile may not be something the pope technically wears, but it has become an iconic papal accessory nonetheless. Some of these specially designed cars even come with a bulletproof bubble, which was deemed necessary after the 1981 assassination attempt on Pope John Paul II. 

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The pope's pajamas -

It may surprise you to know that despite all of the ceremonies surrounding the pope’s garments, he is actually free to wear what he likes when he goes to bed. His sheets are, however, embroidered with the papal crest—even when visiting other locations.

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Designer glasses -

Although rare, popes of the past have been papped in sunnies, and Pope John Paul II famously tried on a pair gifted to him by the singer Bono. Pope Benedict XVI was also snapped in a pair of designer Serengetis. Pope Francis, however, has opted for a simple pair of wire-rimmed reading glasses instead. 

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Papal fashion at the MET -

The pope’s look has become so iconic that it has even crossed over into contemporary culture—most notably at the 2018 MET Gala. Following the ‘Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination’ theme, Rihanna turned up quite literally dressed as the pope (well, with a few extra sparkles and a lot more leg on show!)

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The evolution of papal pageantry -

As Pope Francis has proven, the pope’s look is one that evolves over time. But as the world begins to wonder who will carry on his legacy, we are also left to ponder what will happen to the papal wardrobe. Will it continue to become more refined or will some of the pomp of the past be restored? 

Sources: (Liturgical Arts Journal) (Belief Net) (Yahoo) (Independent)

See also: How a new pope is elected

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