This luxury shopping destination has an infamous stench -

The Chouara Tannery is one of the largest tanneries among the three remaining in the center of the medina of Fes el-Bali, Morocco. It's famed for the high-quality products still made by hand using ancient methods. They have pits that are filled with natural dyes used in the process of dying lamb, cattle, goat, and camel leather. Visiting the Chouara Tannery is an enthralling experience for all the senses! 

Check out this gallery to learn more about this famous tannery and its cultural significance, and let us not forget why it is described as the stinkiest place on Earth...

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Chouara Tannery -

The Chouara Tannery is the Fes medina’s most iconic site to visit if you're in Morocco. Chouara has been around since the 11th century. In 1981, it was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.

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Fes el Bali -

Fes is famous for its quality leather products, mainly sold from the leather bazaar, or souk. Fes el Bali is the medina’s oldest district. It was chosen as the location for the tanneries because it is adjacent to the river.

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History -

Traditional tanneries have long been a source of wealth in Morocco. They inspired the Arabic proverb “Dar Dbagh, Dar Edheb,” which means, "A house of tannery is a house of gold."

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The art -

These tanning techniques have been used for centuries, making Morocco famous worldwide. It gained peak fame during the rule of the Almohad dynasty in the 12th century.

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Three houses -

There were around 86 tannery houses in the old city of Fes in the year 1325. Now, only three houses remain: Chouara, Sidi Moussa, and Ain Azliten. 

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Tannery structure - The tannery's structure is still intact from its modest origins, which is what makes this tannery unique. It has stood for more than a thousand years. 

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Medina river -

The river is a helpful resource. The easy access to the river supplies much of the water that is required for the leather-making process. 

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Hides -

Tanning and currying the hides and skins is the part of the industry that triggers all senses. The sharp smell from the process tickles the nostrils, but the finished materials are warm to the touch. 

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Quality leather -

The best quality of leather comes from goats and sheep that are raised in mountain areas. Goat is the dominant leather choice as it is of superior quality, despite being a volatile material. 

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Goat's hide -

Goat leather is made up of interknit fibers. It is naturally soft, flexible, and water-resistant due to the presence of lanolin (wool fat).

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Skinning -

The craftsmen prepare the hides by removing excess flesh residue and excess fur. All this is done by hand. 

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Soaking -

The next step is to place the animal hides into a large vat filled with lime, ammonia, pigeon droppings, and sometimes, cow urine. They are left to soak for a few days in the stinking concoction, which helps to soften the hide. 

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Washing -

The skins are then removed and washed. This is one of the oldest techniques and produces the softest and smoothest leather. It's prized for its luxurious feel and durability.

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Drying process -

The hides are left on the terraces and rooftops of homes that surround the tanneries to dry. They are dried for three or four days before being dyed. 

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Dying the leather -

The excess hair is removed from the skins, which are then immersed in big vats of natural dyes. They are then left to dry.

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Dyes -

The dyes are made using natural anti-aging products. Poppies are used for making the red dye, indigo is used for the blue dye, henna is used for the orange dye, and mint for the green.

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Tricky work -

The tanners have to slather their legs in Vaseline to ensure their skin doesn’t get dyed in the process, which is one downside of the job...

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Population -

Of the nearly 90,000 inhabitants of the medina, 30,000 of them are artisans. There are 500 who work as master craftsmen and about 1,200 in the tanning vats. 

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Employment -

The tannery has more than 500 master craftsmen working daily in the city’s 1,200 basins. A tanner earns the same as any unskilled worker in Morocco. Most tanners get started because it is their family trade, passed down through tradition.

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Craftsmanship -

Dozens of artisans work barefoot to immerse the large leather skins in hundreds of vats of all different colors.  The entire process takes around thirty days.

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Terraces -

There are shops with terraces around the tanneries where the skilled workers are on display for visitors. 

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The stench - If you visit, they hand you little mint sprigs at the beginning to help you avoid the very strong and unpleasant stench produced during the process. Sadly, it doesn’t always work. 

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Customs - It has always been a custom for the workers to try and convince tourists to buy a piece of leather in exchange for visiting the tannery. A modest tip will often suffice.

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Leather products -

There are jackets, bags, shoes, boots, belts, hats, and all kinds of leather accessories there to buy. The streets are filled with merchandise shops.

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Visitors -

The Chouara Tannery attracts international tourists throughout the year. They are drawn to witness the leather tanning process, see the ancient craftsmanship, and purchase the vibrant dyed leather.

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Export -

Morocco’s artisanal leather is the country's largest export to European countries like Spain and Spain. They also export large quantities to India. 

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Morrocan leather -

Morrocan leather continues to captivate people around the world due to its enduring tradition and craftsmanship. A visit to the Chouara Tannery is an experience you'll never forget! 

Sources: (Guide Infes)(Textile today) (AFAR)(Hello Carbar) (Morocco World News)

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