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Who are the Sherpas? -

Sherpas are a Nepalese ethnic group consisting of approximately 150,000 people that live in the Solu-Khumbu district, surrounded by the Himalayas.

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Solo-Khumbu district -

The Solo-Khumbu district consists of two regions (Solo and Khumbu) connected by the Sun Kosi River.

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Sherpa origins -

The name Sherpa, meaning "of the east," refers to their origins in eastern Tibet. The Sherpas began to migrate in the 15th century, living as traders, farmers, and herders.

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Difference between Sherpas and guides -

The term "Sherpa" is now commonly used interchangeably, but there are distinct differences between a Sherpa and an expedition guide.

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Porters and guides -

Trek workers can sometimes be referred to as Sherpa without belonging to the ethnic group. Recently, the term has been loosely used to describe high-altitude guides that do a lot of the heavy lifting for tourist climbers, such as carrying the bulk of equipment, setting up camp, cooking and serving meals, and guiding climbers through difficult treks (including securing climbing routes), even providing first aid when necessary.

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The mountain as holy -

Although today it's impossible to decouple the image of Sherpas from climbing, Sherpas hadn't attempted to scale the mountains until the 20th century due to religious reasons.

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Names of Everest -

There are three known names Mount Everest has been commonly referred to as. Everest is the most well known, dating back to 1865 and referring to the name of a surveyor. For its part, the Nepalese government refers to the mountain as Sagarmatha. As for the Sherpas, they call it Chomolungma, its Tibetan name, meaning "goddess mother of the world."

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Divine force of the mountain -

The Sherpas believe that religious forces live on the mountain's peaks. Their belief is evident in how they care for the well-being of the environment and transmit the responsibility of care to visitors.

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Everest Base Camp -

Mount Everest can be climbed from two sides. Its north side is in Tibet, while its south side is in Nepal. The famous Everest Base Camp is located in Nepal. Both of the mountain's first summiteers, Tenzing Norgay, a Sherpa, and Edmund Hillary, successfully reached the peak in 1953 from the southern Nepalese route.

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Sherpas' guidance -

Not all visitors attempt to climb Mount Everest, as there are other peaks that the Sherpas can provide guidance to.

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Key decision-makers -

Sherpas are considered elite mountaineers, and for good reason. They are key decision-makers that provide safe passage for visitors by understanding risks, weather patterns, and other elements that their expert knowledge facilitates.

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Physiological changes -

Since the boom of the profession in their community, Sherpas have experienced physiological changes that allow them to better adapt to higher altitudes. In addition to higher lung capacity, Sherpas have also experienced increased production of a hormone called erythropoietin, which stimulates the production of red blood cells in response to low partial pressure of oxygen.

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Challenges and risks -

Renowned for their skills, strength, and endurance, most of the Sherpa community relies on mountaineering tourism to make a living. Yet there are many challenges and risks that Sherpas experience.

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Lucrative business -

Climbing Mount Everest is a lucrative business. Any potential climber is required to obtain a permit, which can cost as much as US$25,000. Overall, the expedition costs can run up to $100,000 per person.

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Payment discrepancy -

Despite the high costs to access the mountain, Sherpas only earn an average of US$5,000 per climbing season, while the average non-Sherpa, Western guide can earn up to $50,000.

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Salary vs profits -

Although the salary exceeds Nepal's average per capita household income (approximately US$430), there is a stark difference between what private businesses and the Nepalese government charge and what Sherpas ultimately take home, while experiencing serious risks to their health and well-being.

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High mortality rate -

The mortality rate for climbing Sherpas is 1.2%, which, according to Outside magazine, is higher than any service industry in the world.

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Occupational risks -

They are also at high risk of occupational hazards like respiratory issues and injuries, whose impacts are further heightened due to the lack of proper health care in high-altitude areas.

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Little gear -

While Sherpas carry trekkers' equipment, they have access to very little of their own and aren't provided with much more gear by the private businesses that employ them.

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Reduced access to oxygen and medication -

The occupational hazards that Sherpas face are significant. Sherpas have reduced access to bottled oxygen due to its high cost, and lack access to dexamethasone for acute mountain sickness. Therefore, they face high risk for chronic respiratory issues.

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Environmental risks -

While Sherpas' intimate familiarity with their surroundings make them best suited for adaptable decision-making to prioritize their safety and that of their visitors, the environmental risks are always, to some degree, unpredictable.

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Conditions can be unpredictable -

Avalanches, sudden changes in weather conditions, landslides, among other dangers, may cause grave injury or death to Sherpas and the climbers accompanying them.

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Climate change impacts safety -

Climate change make these risks even more palpable. Changes in weather patterns and the accelerating rate of glacier melting pose threats to the resilience of the Sherpa community to adapt to ever-changing environmental conditions, and impact the safety of their profession.

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Capacity issues -

The popularity and accessibility of climbing Mount Everest has also created an issue of capacity. In 2019, traffic jams forced climbers to wait at the summit. Facing freezing temperatures and depleting oxygen levels, four deaths resulted from overcrowded trekking.

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Permits -

Previously, Nepal granted permits to everyone who was willing to pay. In 2023, Nepal issued 478 permits for Mount Everest alone, the most ever recorded in history.

Pictured is Gwen Morgan preparing for her climb of Mount Everest.

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Most climbers from China and US -

By May 2024, 403 permits had already been granted for Mount Everest, with visitors primarily originating from China and the United States.

Pictured is South African climber Ryan Sean Davy, who was detained after trying to climb Mount Everest without a permit.

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Capping permits -

In April 2024, the Nepalese Supreme Court issued a mandamus order to the Nepalese government to limit the amount of permits authorized for its peaks. The order also outlines waste management and preservation guidelines, as garbage and abandoned equipment have accumulated on the treks.

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Ambiguity in court order -

Yet, the Court's order makes no reference to what the maximum permits issued should be. The order fails to identify what the mountain's capacity is and, therefore, how the order should be applied.

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Known Sherpa climbers -

Famed Sherpa climbers include Tenzing Norgay, who reached the summit of Mount Everest in 1953. "Super Sherpa" Appa Sherpa is known for climbing Everest 21 times in a span of two decades. Then there's Kami Rita Sherpa, who has climbed Everest 30 times, the most ascents in history.

Pictured is Norgay with his wife, Ang Lahmu, and one of his daughters, in London.

Sources: (NPR) (Britannica) (BBC) (France 24) (Highland Expeditions) (Ace the Himalaya)

See also: The Gurkhas—the feared and fearless soldiers of Nepal

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