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Once a fabric synonymous with the British aristocracy, tweed is experiencing a surprising resurgence in popularity. From the catwalks of Paris Fashion Week to the streets of New York, tweed is everywhere! But how has this classic fabric managed to defy the dominance of fast fashion and make such a comeback?
Is it the timeless elegance, the countryside aura, or perhaps the cozy comfort it offers? Let's dive into the world of tweed and explore why it's once again capturing the hearts of fashion enthusiasts worldwide.
Fast fashion has made trendy, affordable clothing more accessible than ever. While more people are becoming aware of its environmental impact, it's rare to find garments older than ten years in our closets, except for a few treasured vintage or heirloom pieces.
So, how do some people manage to look consistently stylish and well-dressed for decades, often wearing the same clothes? Take King Charles, for example, who is frequently seen sporting a classic double-breasted coat. What’s the secret?
The (not so) secret lies in the timeless quality of tweed. This tightly woven woolen fabric, often featuring classic patterns like herringbone or houndstooth, has been a British winter staple for centuries. Its natural insulating properties make it the perfect fabric for braving the cold.
Tweed's stylish yet rugged nature has made it a favorite for outdoor activities like horseback riding and hunting. This photo of British Prime Minister Harold Macmillan in a tweed hunting outfit in the Yorkshire countryside, circa 1950, captures the timeless appeal of tweed for outdoor pursuits.
Tweed's classic, almost aristocratic image might seem old-fashioned to some. Yet, it's experiencing a modern renaissance. Beyond its undeniable durability, what could be driving its recent resurgence on couture runways and high-street shelves?
Tweed's journey from practical fabric to aristocratic symbol began in the cold, windswept regions of Scotland and Ireland. Pictured is a crofter on the Isle of Lewis and Harris, weaving Harris tweed, a testament to the island's rich textile heritage. Lewis and Harris, the largest of the Western Isles, is a remote island off the Scottish coast.
"Tweed is a fabric that comes from the land, and the natural dye palettes often reflect the regions and landscapes from which it comes," explains Rebecca Earley, professor of circular design futures at the University of the Arts, London. This connection to nature, coupled with its traditional handwoven method, has helped elevate Harris tweed to global acclaim.
Tweed's natural roots do more than add a nostalgic charm to garments. It's also an "environmentally friendly fabric, made from 100% natural, renewable, and biodegradable materials," explains Martin Crawford, a consultant at Anderson & Sheppard, the esteemed Savile Row tailor behind King Charles' iconic tweed coats.
Crawford considers tweed "the first cottage industry" and attributes its enduring popularity to its adaptability over the past 200 years. However, not all tweed is created equal, so consumers seeking sustainable options should be mindful of their choices.
The quality of the fibers, sourcing practices, and production processes can vary widely. To make an informed choice, look for brands that prioritize sustainability, offer certifications, and use natural, renewable materials. Beware of cheaper synthetic fibers that may compromise the environmental benefits of tweed.
If you're looking for genuine Harris Tweed, look for the Orb label. This certification, protected by the Harris Tweed Act of 1993, guarantees that the fabric is handwoven using 100% British wool in the Outer Hebrides. Ruth Masson, sales and marketing manager at Harris Tweed Hebrides, recommends checking the fabric composition when purchasing a garment labeled as 'tweed.'
Beyond its natural materials, tweed's durability makes it an even more sustainable choice. A tightly woven tweed garment can last for decades.
To enhance both durability and comfort, many tweed garments are lined. This lining not only provides structure but also protects your skin from the fabric's natural texture, explains Earley.
Additionally, tweed is easy to repair. If you get a moth hole or other damage, a simple darn can easily fix it. "The pattern of the fabric helps to hide any signs of wear and tear," Earley explains.
Perhaps one of the most appealing aspects of tweed, both in terms of sustainability and practicality, is its natural antibacterial properties, due to its wool base.
This means you can simply air your tweed garment outside instead of washing it. In fact, dry cleaning can actually damage the fabric's texture, so it's best to avoid it. Tweed is "generally self-cleaning," advises Earley.
Modern fashion brands focused on sustainability are becoming increasingly drawn to tweed's eco-friendly qualities. "Over the past 15 years, our industry has experienced a surge of interest, particularly in traditional designs and patterns," confirms Masson.
Masson also notes a growing consumer interest in the stories behind the products they purchase. Harris Tweed's artisanal production process and unique heritage have enabled the brand to partner with a diverse range of brands, reaching a wider demographic of customers, from luxury to high-street.
Fashion rental platform Hurr has reported a 110% increase in tweed rentals since September. Sophie Devlin, fashion director at Hurr, confirms the growing surge for searches related to tweed and materials that reflect a "preppy countryside trend." According to Devlin, red tweed, along with classic black and white pieces, have been popular choices for partywear.
Tweed's first contemporary revival was spearheaded by luxury fashion labels like Chanel in the 1950s. Chanel's iconic tweed jacket continues to be one of the most sought-after and copied fashion pieces.
By 1951, tweed had become a fashion sensation. As seen in this 1951 edition of Vogue, a model was photographed wearing a striking barrel wool tweed coat with oversized pockets.
Almost a decade later, in 1967, Vogue featured actress Mia Farrow in a tweed pantsuit and a dark green Loden cloth cape by Saint Laurent Rive Gauche, proving tweed's enduring appeal.
In 1976, British designer Vivienne Westwood first partnered with Harris Tweed Hebrides on the Isle of Lewis to create iconic bondage trousers. A decade later, she launched her autumn/winter 1987 Harris Tweed collection, marking the beginning of a long-lasting collaboration between the two brands.
In a celebration of Scottish craftsmanship, Dior's creative director, Maria Grazia Chiuri, visited the Harris Tweed mill in November 2023 to collaborate on a special line of bespoke fabrics. These fabrics were featured prominently in the Cruise 2025 collection, inspired by Mary Queen of Scots and showcased at Drummond Castle in June 2024.
French fashion house Chloé also embraced tweed, creating stylish and contemporary pieces that appealed to a fashion-forward audience. By offering fitted and cropped silhouettes, Chloé brought a modern twist to the traditional tweed garment.
Tweed made a strong showing at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2025. From classic Chanel-inspired looks…
…to more casual, modern interpretations, tweed pieces, and even full ensembles, were spotted on several trendy fashionistas attending the event.
Another proof of tweed's increasing popularity is its celebrity following. King Charles isn't the only royal to favor tweed; Princess Kate Middleton is also a fan of Harris Tweed Hebrides, often spotted in their more casual tweed jackets.
Another favorite in her wardrobe is a cobalt blue Chanel tweed jacket from the '90s, which she often re-wears.
Adding to tweed's global fanbase, supermodel Gigi Hadid has become a recent devotee, proving that tweed's appeal transcends borders and generations.
Source: (BBC) (Vogue)
See also: Simple tips to avoid fast fashion
From Gigi Hadid to Kate Middleton: this self-cleaning fabric is on the rise
The timeless (and practical) fabric that's making a comeback
LIFESTYLE Clothes
Once a fabric synonymous with the British aristocracy, tweed is experiencing a surprising resurgence in popularity. From the catwalks of Paris Fashion Week to the streets of New York, tweed is everywhere! But how has this classic fabric managed to defy the dominance of fast fashion and make such a comeback?
Is it the timeless elegance, the countryside aura, or perhaps the cozy comfort it offers? Let's dive into the world of tweed and explore why it's once again capturing the hearts of fashion enthusiasts worldwide.