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Believe it or not, skin lightening products now account for half of the global cosmetics market, with demand continuing to surge. Research from the world’s largest market research store, Research and Markets, estimates the market at US$9 billion in 2023, projected to reach $13.3 billion by 2030. But behind this booming industry lies a toxic truth.
In this gallery, discover the harmful lengths many women with darker skin go to in their efforts to conform to Eurocentric beauty standards, and the dangerous ingredients that may be hidden in your skincare products. Click on for more.
Skin whitening is far from a new phenomenon. Traced back to ancient civilizations as early as 200 BCE, this practice saw the use of natural ingredients to lighten skin in societies across Asia, Africa, and the Caribbean.
What was once a natural beauty ritual evolved into a deeply rooted cultural and social practice. Shaped by Eurocentric beauty ideals and the histories of colonialism, slavery, and colorism, lighter skin has long been linked to higher status and personal worth.
Colorism, a form of discrimination that favors lighter skin within any ethnic or racial group, has had lasting impacts on societal dynamics. In the United States, colorism took root during the slavery era, when enslavers often showed preference to lighter-skinned individuals. This gave rise to a hierarchy that continues to influence social, economic, and personal biases today.
In warmer climates, lighter skin symbolized wealth and privilege, as it suggested an ability to stay indoors while darker-skinned laborers worked outside. These associations, while outdated, still affect beauty standards across cultures. While representation has improved, skin tone bias still runs deep in many societies, often favoring lighter skin over darker tones.
Skin bleaching has become a common practice among both men and women. Many individuals use these products not only to lighten their skin but also to tackle freckles, blemishes, and age spots. However, these so-called 'solutions' often carry significant health risks.
Board-certified dermatologists warn that while achieving lighter skin may provide a temporary confidence boost, it’s often not worth the health costs. The dangerous chemicals in many bleaching products pose severe risks to users’ health. Prolonged use of these products may result in severe skin conditions and even cancer.
Ousmane Faye, director general of Mali's Bamako Dermatology Hospital, recently stated at the 25th World Congress of Dermatology that cases of skin cancer linked to prolonged use of bleaching products have been observed since 2000. Squamous cell carcinoma, a skin cancer linked to long-term bleaching, is especially prevalent in areas like the neck and face after a decade of consistent product use.
The first documented case in Africa of cancer related to skin bleaching involved a 58-year-old woman from Ghana who had used these products for nearly 30 years, presenting tumors on her face, neck, and arms.
Skin bleaching typically works by inhibiting melanin production, thus lightening the skin’s natural tone. However, products containing mercury and hydroquinone not only damage the skin but can also lead to systemic toxicity and environmental harm.
Hydroquinone is used to lighten the dark patches of skin such as age spots, freckles, hyperpigmentation, melasma, and liver spots. Hydroquinone is not FDA approved due to its unknown safety profile. It is banned in the EU, Australia, and Japan.
Hydroquinone carries several risks, including skin irritation, allergic reactions, inflammation, and a condition called ochronosis, which causes bluish-black discoloration with prolonged use. It can also increase sun sensitivity, raise concerns about potential carcinogenic effects, and disrupt hormonal function.
Mercury poses serious health risks, damaging the brain, nervous system, and kidneys. It can also harm the skin, leading to rashes, blotchy spots, and a grayish hue. The health risks escalate with the frequency and duration of using mercury-containing products.
Symptoms of mercury exposure may include hypertension, edema, and uremia due to renal injury, as well as paresthesia, nervousness, irritability, tremors, memory loss, depression, weight loss, and fatigue. Exposure of the fetus to methylmercury poses particular danger to an unborn child.
The FDA cautions that you should avoid skin creams, beauty and antiseptic soaps, and lotions that contain mercury. But how can you tell if a cosmetic, particularly one labeled “anti-aging” or “skin lightening,” contains mercury?
Simply check the label. If you see terms like “mercurous chloride,” “calomel,” “mercuric,” “mercurio,” or “mercury,” it means the product contains mercury. You should stop using the product immediately.
Recognizing the widespread damage caused by skin bleaching, some governments are taking action. Gabon, Jamaica, and Sri Lanka have recently committed to a joint US$14-million initiative to eliminate mercury from skin lightening products.
In Rwanda, a national ban on skin whitening products took effect in 2018, with violators facing fines and possible prison time. The East African country led a campaign against skin bleaching and substandard cosmetics, particularly products that include hydroquinone.
Government officials and police patrolled markets in the capital, Kigali, and in provinces across the central African nation, seizing skin lightening and bleaching products from vendors. But despite these government-led efforts, at least four in 10 women in Africa are estimated to use skin lightening products, according to the World Health Organization.
South Africa was the first country in the world to prohibit skin bleaching products, a move that has since been followed by Rwanda, the Ivory Coast, Tanzania, Kenya, and Ghana. However, despite these regulations, individuals continue to access these products through street vendors and cosmetic shops, often bypassing the bans and regulatory measures in place.
A study by the National Library of Medicine utilized Google Trends to analyze data from October 2022 to October 2023 measuring the search terms "skin whitening," "skin lightening," and "skin bleaching" by Geographic Region. The findings highlighted that the top five countries with the highest search interest were Pakistan, Nigeria, Ghana, Sri Lanka, and India.
A study among Saudi female students found a unanimous positive perception of lighter skin tones, with many associating fairer skin with youth, beauty, and social advantage. The research, published by the National Library of Medicine, also revealed that students from lower economic backgrounds and those experiencing poor mental health were more likely to overuse skin lightening products.
American reality TV star Blac Chyna faced a social media backlash after announcing she had partnered with a beauty line called Whitenicious to sell a skin lightening cream that claims to "brighten and lighten without bleaching skin out." The social media influencer launched the face cream in Lagos, Nigeria.
Cameroonian singer Dencia, who founded the company, has been criticized for selling the skin lightening products. However, in 2014 she defended herself to Ebony magazine, saying, “Whitenicious doesn’t contain bleaching ingredients that could damage the skin. It doesn't have hydroquinone, it doesn’t have steroids, and it doesn’t have mercury.”
Although the products may not contain the more sinister ingredients, the harm comes from the branding and messaging, suggesting that lighter skin is luxurious and of high value, thereby reinforcing archaic colorism mantras.
Colorism can have profound mental health effects on individuals and communities, leading to low self-esteem and negative self-image, particularly among those with darker skin tones.
This pressure to conform to beauty standards favoring lighter skin can result in body dysmorphia, depression, and anxiety. Individuals may internalize negative beliefs about their skin tone, fostering self-hatred and feelings of isolation.
Chronic exposure to colorist attitudes can create stress and trauma, impair relationships within families and communities, and lead to unhealthy coping mechanisms. Addressing these impacts requires awareness and supportive environments that celebrate and accept all skin tones.
The global market for skin lighteners was projected to reach US$31.2 billion by 2024, up from $17.9 billion in 2017. The gains are expected to be especially seen in Asia, the Middle East, and Africa, according to Global Industry Analysts. The cumulative health risks, alongside the social pressures to conform to a fair-skinned ideal, make skin bleaching an ethically fraught and physically dangerous practice.
In a world that increasingly highlights diversity, embracing one’s natural skin tone is a powerful act of self-acceptance. As societies shift toward more inclusive beauty standards, promoting the acceptance of natural skin tones will enhance well-being for all.
True beauty lies not in conforming to harmful, antiquated ideals, but in the individuality and confidence that come from embracing who we are, paving the way for generations to follow.
Sources: (NPR) (WHO) (Research and Markets) (National Library of Medicine) (Global Industry Analysts)
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HEALTH Cosmetics
Believe it or not, skin lightening products now account for half of the global cosmetics market, with demand continuing to surge. Research from the world’s largest market research store, Research and Markets, estimates the market at US$9 billion in 2023, projected to reach US$13.3 billion by 2030. But behind this booming industry lies a toxic truth.
In this gallery, discover the harmful lengths many women with darker skin go to in their efforts to conform to Eurocentric beauty standards, and the dangerous ingredients that may be hidden in your skincare products. Click on for more.